When you've been putting classic outfits together for over ten years, you begin to notice some patterns in how men learn to dress. Unfortunately, since things have gotten more and more casual over the last 3-4 generations, very few men who want to dress well actually learn much from their fathers. The advent of Instagram, Tik Tok, and YouTube and passionate content creators has greatly contributed to the style renaissance that more and more young men are becoming apart of.
This consistent access to menswear information has created an even more consistent life cycle of a stylish man's growth and evolution. No matter the age or cause, this lifecycle starts and ends the same way every time, ending with a tasteful, stylish gentleman.
Part I: Curiosity/Inspiration
- This is the "awakening" phase of an interest in being a more stylish man. usually occurring between one's late teenage years and their mid 20s. You've dressed up before in life, but you are now truly interested in it as a way to better define yourself. Usually the exploration process involves a more careful review of menswear Instagram pages, a subscription to GQ or Esquire, and exploration of brands in your local shops. Many men will start analyzing the styles of characters and content personalities, and gravitating towards ones they enjoy.
The part of this phase that one can become entrapped by is overload. All of a sudden, a suit or blazer goes from this uniform, boring piece of clothing you had to wear to a wedding or funeral once, and now you notice just how many different details, styles, and options you have access to. You don't need one of everything on the first day. Once you start gravitating towards some specific style elements, search those out, examine your options, and invest in a couple high quality pieces. DO NOT cosplay the Peaky Blinders and DO NOT go out and but a matching tie and pocket square set for every slot on the color wheel. Also, those menswear accessories subscriptions are scams, avoid them completely. You see many young athletes stuck in this phase, as they probably got their first big check and wanted the "custom-tailored experience."
These guys are easiest to spot by their ultra-tapered, tight suits, gaudy use of every silly menswear gimmick accessory known to man, honey-tan derby dress shoes with EVERYTHING, and hair with every sponsored product you can think of.
(Mr. Richards of Richard's Bespoke, known for dressing athletes in some of the gaudiest, tightest fitting suits I've ever seen)
- Just because you have a lot of menswear accessories, doesn't mean every possible slot in the outfit needs to be occupied.
Part II: Legalistic "Enforcer"
- Arguably the most insufferable phase, especially for those around you, even more so for those that don't share your newfound fascination. At this point, you have started building a bit of a wardrobe, an accessories collection, and maybe even a few nice pairs of shoes. You have these particular pieces because you chose them based on the torrent of menswear content you've been consuming non-stop. Your car rides (even with some poor soul in the car with you) are marathons of Gentleman's Gazette, Sartorial Talks and Askokey. You have memorized every classic rule that's ever been said or written, ready to graduate magna cum laude of the fashion police. You are a studied, learned young man ready to spread his fountain of knowledge to everyone.
- Unfortunately, this means you notice these rules and traditions of classic style being broken everywhere. It's easy to suddenly become disillusioned when the menswear content's promises of hotel and flight upgrades for wearing a suit everywhere you go doesn't ever happen, or when that girl you're crushing on doesn't notice that you're wearing vintage Harris Tweed. This middle phase of learning to be stylish is an awkward one, but you grow out of it as opportunities to help people that actually want to be helped pop up, and you learn to break the rules and experiment a bit. You probably have a handful of bloggers as well whose word is gospel in every matter.
These guys can best be spotted by a decent-fitting outfit (probably overdressed for the occasion because only he knows the REAL definition of "casual") that still has just a few too many accessories or patterns going on. Luckily, or maybe less than luckily, if you're dressed up as well, he will find you and let you know which style rules you aren't following.
(The Gentleman's Gazette Team)
-Learn from the experts, but understand the practical application of sartorial knowledge and skills to keep both feet on the ground.
Part III: Application, Experimentation.
- The hardest part is over. You're on your way. You've understood the point of all those rules you so rigidly kept enforced was so they could guide you to a point where you could bend them in the best of ways. You've started thinking more philosophically about different aesthetics and styles, the way they create a certain aura. You've started looking to more esoteric styles and elements of style to experiment with. You're forming your own opinions and your own distinct personal style with a confidence you didn't quite have before. You're starting to come into your own.
- This phase usually lines up with the time one gets better paying work than they once had, and there is a nasty temptation to get way more than you really need or really are ever going to use. The vast majority of whole outfits purchased for a single event are done in this phase. Don't go broke being a menswear mad scientist.
-These guys are a little tougher to spot unless you have an eye for details, but usually look like they're on their way to a menswear fashion show wherever they go. Grooming more subtle than days past and the accessories game, while still a bit much, is staring to reel itself in.
(An unnamed gentleman dressed for Pitti Uomo)
Being able to navigate the space between the rules is the difference between knowledge and wisdom.
Part IV: Wisdom.
- You've got a job, and you dress practically for your day-to-day, which, much to the excitable person you were at the beginning, isn't actually a complete three piece suit with matching hat and coordinated accessories. You've started prioritizing more practical application of style. Prioritizing a comfort and function over trying to make sure you looked like you just stepped out of a menswear catalogue. You know how to truly be yourself no matter the dress code, and warmly take opportunities to share advice with people when they seek you out for it. You've found the exact value that style personally means to you. It's effortless at this point. You go out in a cardigan with a hole in it and a faded ascot, and some energetic guy with skinny tapered pants, socks that match his tie and too many wrist bands to count tries to school you on "how to dress like a man," and it's the funniest thing on the planet.
(Hugo Jacomet of Sartorial Talks)
A master of the sartorial arts always appears at ease, and still manages to always stand out in the most tasteful of ways.
Everybody who truly takes an interest in how they dress will follow this path. Many at different paces, but all is done with the ultimate goal of achieving a true sense of style.